While we have never been to LV Christmas week, we did just return from a four night stay (Dec 7-11) when the city was in Christmas-mode--as well as yee-haa cowboy-mode since the rodeo was in town. One reason the wife wanted to go was to see the Bellagio Conservatory where they had a wonderful holiday display--very well done. Fremont had a 20ft tree, nicely decorated. And the Christmas music mingled with the country western bands in every lounge. Had a great time.
But we are still hosting a group of twelve children, spouses, and grandchildren for Christmas dinner, so we didn't manage to avoid that.