Hello one and all,
This past March 26-30, I had a chance to string together a rather nice little week in Nevada that was some work and some play, and I thought you would enjoy reading about it. The play portion ended up being somewhat disappointing, but the trip had more then a few highlights, here goes:
Day 1:
I arrive at the airport and settle in for the flight. The time for boarding comes, goes and slowly but surely the night gets later. After about 25 minutes without an explanation, the gate agent makes an announcement that I’ve never heard before. She tells us that the plane at the gate had been in storage for a few days, and as she put it “needs to be aired out.” We watched as they opened all of the plane’s doors and attempted to get the stink out. This went on for about 15 minutes, and we were finally told they couldn’t get the stink out. We were told to get over to the next gate over and board there. But this required an insane amount of time on the computer as the new plane wasn’t exactly the same configuration as the previous one. When all was said and done we lost nearly 45 minutes due to a stinky plane!
The rest of the journey to Vegas went well, and we even made up a little time on the way there. I had made some plans for my night in Vegas, and as we journeyed there I felt that perhaps some of those plans might still hold. But those hopes were dashed a bit more when I arrived to find the rental car line was ridiculously long.
I have been an Enterprise devotee for many years now. My company rents with Budget, so I have no choice there, but if it’s up to me, I generally don’t rent with anyone else. However, with money being so tight on this occasion, I went against my better judgment and made a cheaper reservation with Dollar. I will never ever rent from Dollar again. There were at least 10 people in line, and only two people to service them. Another 45 minutes of my evening was lost. I finally pulled out onto Las Vegas Blvd at about 10:45 PM.
My plans had originally called for dinner at Le Burger Brassiere, but that was well out the window at this point. So I headed for the Bellagio, thinking I’d be able to catch the next fountain show. I parked and walked briskly from the parking garage to the street, passing by a rather scantily clad young lady on my way. We had about a minute and a half in the elevator, and I commented about her shoes “Don’t those hurt?” which got a giggle out of her. Call me Mr. Smooth I guess.
I made it to the street in front of the fountains at about 11:13, and thought that I’d timed it well to see the 11:15 show. I waited, and waited, and waited, and nothing happened. Finally, at about 11:28, an announcement came that the fountains would not be performing that evening due to high winds. Seriously? High f**king winds is your excuse? I was furious. I felt like I’d fought my way though heaven and earth to get there, and for what? To be told there would be no show.
My hunger came on like a hurricane, but at that point I felt completely unprepared. I know there are plenty of late night joints in Vegas, but at that point there were none that I really felt like eating at. I opted to head into Cosmopolitan and head for the Secret Pizzeria. I had two slices of White Pie (amazingly good) and felt a little better. The vibe in that place is a lot of fun, and it might be the most reasonably priced good food on the Strip.
I walked back over to the Bellagio and made my way to the Conservatory. It was done up with a theme that I think was supposed to evoke Springtime in Holland. There was a full size carousel, windmill, and lots of wooden shoes. As always, the Conservatory is a wonderful little place to escape and feel peaceful. It remains one of my favorite spots in the world.
I made my way back to the car, and headed out to Las Vegas Blvd, telling myself I would enjoy the drive up the Strip to my hotel downtown. But getting up the Strip was not to be that night, as I ended up in a monster traffic jam. I finally bailed and turned at O Shea’s, heading up the street and past the huge construction pit that I assume is someday to be part of Project Linq. This was to be the extent of my time on the Strip for this trip, very disappointing as you might imagine.
I made my way up Paradise Rd to Main Street and worked my way over to the Plaza for a late checkin. This too, proved to be frustrating as there was only one available checkin agent for a line of about 7 people. I finally got up to my room at nearly 1AM, and should have called it quits, but I ignored all the obvious signs and decided to head back out for some late night gambling.
I fired up my Hoyo de Monterrey and walked up Fremont Street to the Four Queens, settling in at a $5 Blackjack table with a $40 buy-in. Three hands later it was all gone. I walked a bit further, and finally made it to the D Las Vegas (my intended destination.) Being a Detroit man myself, I’m a little tickled that “The D” is going to be part of the Vegas lingo now. The transition is in the very early stages, but I thought the new table felts looked cool, and the Long Bar looked like a lot of fun too. I bought in for the last of my bankroll at another blackjack table, and again it did not last long. If I ever get back to Vegas I will have to re-visit the D.
It was a hell of a long walk back to the Plaza after such a brutal beatdown, but I did make it. As I eased into bed, I told myself that hopefully the next day would be better. It certainly couldn’t go much worse…
Day 2:
I awoke and found I was totally not hungry, so my breakfast plans went out the window. It felt so strange, but I desperately just wanted to get the hell out of Las Vegas. I got to my rental car and made my way up the street the California to get some candy at Ethel M. I was shocked to find how expensive it has become. 12 pieces will now set you back $21. To pay $1.75 a piece for a small piece of candy is a little rich. It’s very good candy, but I’m not sure you can justify that type of expense for it.
From the California I made my way out to the expressway, and was soon en route to Laughlin. I decided that I better be smart and pulled off briefly to get a meal bar and a bottle of water, but beyond that the drive was straight through. I’ve always enjoyed the beauty of the desert on the way, and with the ride being 75MPH and straight as an arrow most of the way there, it’s a fun drive too.
I arrived in Laughlin fairly early (around 1PM) and made my way to the Aquarius. I told myself that I’d try for an early check-in, and if unsuccessful I would check my bags until I could get into a room. As it happened, I was able to get into a room right away, and did very well with a Strip/River facing room. The Aquarius is a really nice hotel that gives the rest of Laughlin something to shoot for. I’ve always been so pleased with how comfortable and clean the room is.
I headed for the Starbucks to grab a Chai Tea Latte and get a few emails sent (this technically still being a work week) and met up with my brother. I was so pleased to see my brother looking so well. The last few years have been a bit of a roller coaster for him, but I think he’s managed to find some new balance in his professional and personal life, which is great. We didn’t have too aggressive of a day planned, so we started with a late lunch (which I was definitely ready for.)
We headed to the Golden Nugget and back to Harlows, which had been such a great choice the last time. The food was equally good this time, and I enjoyed a wonderful piece of grilled Salmon. From there we walked a bit, taking in the riverwalk and passing a booth advertising a boat ride along the Colorado river for only $10. I thought that sounded like good fun, and plans to take the boat ride were made for the next day.
Our day continued at the Riverside Auto Collection, which is still very impressive. I am not a car guy at all, but I can certainly enjoy a museum of automobiles (I am from Detroit after all!) The Riverside collection includes many beauties, from a number of eras. They have Chevelles, Edsels, Corvettes, Mustangs, Continentals, Packards, a Tucker, and even a Deloreon. There are even several older gaming tables and slot machines on display. A few of the cars are even available for sale. I’ve often wondered if an ultra high roller has ever been allowed to just walk into the museum and take his pick (probably not.)
We grabbed the car and made our way across town to the Avi for a movie. It might just be a case of perspective from the seats, but it feels like the screens at the Avi are bigger then the average movie theater. Our movie on this occasion was “21 Jump Street”, which couldn’t have been a better choice, as we were absolutely belly laughing from start to finish. Afterward my brother decided he was hungry, and grabbed a quick slice of pizza at the Sbarro at the Avi. For my part, I wasn’t quite ready for another meal.
We headed back to the Aquarius and parked the car again, headed once again to the riverwalk, and walked some more (we seem to wear out our share of foot leather whenever we visit.) I grabbed a quick meal at McDonalds and we made our way to the Tropicana for some gambling. The pit crews at Tropicana are very laid back, and I enjoyed a nice half hour session that ended with me breaking about even.
I bid my brother goodbye and ended up on the casino floor at the Aquarius, anxious to try the new “big dice” game. This is a computer craps game but with a twist of actual (if oversized) dice in the middle. It feels like a more fair shake then other versions of computerized craps. I enjoyed a 20 minute session for $5. I would recommend this game highly to anyone who wants to give craps a try without stepping up to the actual table just yet.
It had been a wonderful day, with more to come tomorrow.
Day 3:
The day began with breakfast at the Black Bear in Bullhead City. This has been a constant of my visits with my brother. I suppose it feels a little bit like we’ve stepped into the Upper Peninsula of Michigan and have pulled into a roadside diner. The food remains as good as ever, and the atmosphere is pleasant and downhome. I fielded a call from work and was asked to send an important file to a client, so we headed back to the Aquarius and over to the Starbucks for the free wi-fi to send the file.
From there it was a short walk back to the ticket booth to secure our ticket for the boat ride, which was about 45 minutes from starting. We killed some time on the Edgewater casino floor and in short order we were boarding the boat for the little ride.
As many times as I’ve visited my brother, we’ve never bothered with a boat ride before. I suppose it has simply been a case of having other things to do. This little boat ride was priced just right, and felt like the right amount of time as well. We learned a number of interesting little factoids during the ride. A few that I found most interesting included:
• The current look of the Golden Nugget can be attributed to Steve Wynn, who owned the Golden Nugget in Vegas at the time the Laughlin property was purchased and re-branded. This made a lot of sense to me, as the floral and water based scenery at the main entrance definitely has Steve Wynn’s design touch (very similar to the Mirage.) The overall ambiance of the casino floor feels a lot like the casino floors that Steve designs also. I guess it should have occurred to me sooner, but it didn’t;
• There is a suite of rooms at the top of the Edgewater with a very interesting story. At the time that Circus Circus acquired the properties that became the Edgewater and Colorado Belle, they designed a major expansion of rooms, and wanted to properly connect the two properties. But this was impossible due to a little old lady who owned the small parcel of land between them with her trailer on it. According to the tour, it finally took $2.5 million dollars (tax free) and a suite of rooms at the top of the new tower for her to sell her land. Sadly, she passed away just before she was to move into her new home. Another story I’d never heard before;
• At one time, there was an ice rink in Laughlin! When the Edgewater was originally built, it included an ice rink for people who were inclined to skate. I cannot imagine the cost it took to keep the ice frozen and smooth; and
• The water that flows from the Davis Dam in front of the casinos is still at a bone chilling 55 degrees, despite the distance that it has traveled at that point from the mountains of Colorado. This makes the River a tough swim no matter how hot the outside temperature is.
There were many other little trinkets of knowledge that I learned on that boat ride. It was one of the best parts of the trip, and a highly recommended item to anybody who visits Laughlin.
Our visit was nearly over, but with about two hours left, my brother and I reasoned that a visit to the Petroglyphs was not out of the question. We grabbed the car and headed up Route 163 to Christmas Tree Pass. A few miles later and we were upon the infamous canyon where the Petroglyphs can be found. The rugged beauty of Nevada can be found in a lot of places, but this area is probably one of my favorites. We only had about 25 minutes for our stop, but we certainly made the most of our time there, taking several pictures. This is an item that is definitely not for everybody, but I’m glad we did it.
This had been, by far, the best visit my brother and I had had in years, and I literally had to tear myself away from him to be sure that I would get to Vegas in time for my flight. Fortunately, the ride went without incident, and I was at my gate about 45 minutes ahead of schedule. As the plane took off, I took a quick last look at the Strip, perhaps for the last time for quite a while (more on that later.)
The flight to Reno went perfectly, and it was nice to be on a direct flight again. We arrived just before 11PM, and in short order I was in my rental car and on my way to the Peppermill.
The Peppermill is truly an extraordinary property. It reminds me a little bit of the slogan for Hooters, delightfully tacky, if unrefined. In the Peppermill’s case, the slogan might be “Delightfully tacky, AND refined.” The whole place is a study in over the top luxury, lots of bright colors, lots of plush comfort, lots of stimulation overload. I really wish there were a few places in Vegas like this, but I digress.
My check-in went very smoothly, and I was soon in my room, or should I say my Alpha Male Pimp Daddy Party Palace? The Imperial Suite at the Peppermill (not even their best room) might be the most fun hotel room I’ve ever stayed at, anywhere. The only room I can think of that tops it is probably the time I stayed at The Venetian. It easily trumps the rooms I’ve had at MGM Grand, Bellagio, THE Hotel at Mandalay Bay, and Golden Nugget. For starters, the carpet feels like it’s an inch thick. It was absolutely divine to walk around barefoot in my room. I can’t think of any other hotel where I’ve had this type of reaction to the carpeting (who thinks of those things?) The televisions are huge flatscreens, with a very nice selection of channels. The hot tub is right in the middle of the bedroom, and below one of the three televisions (nice!) The furniture is all swanky and again, super comfortable. Jumping into the bed feels like you’ve landed on a cloud. It seemed amazing to me that a room of this caliber was mine for under $100 a night, but there it was.
I was finally hungry, so I headed for the Café Milano. I decided I was ready for something a little decadent, so I went for the Peppermill Omelet. It’s an insane concoction that would make Hash House a Go Go proud, with at least 4 eggs (probably 5), Turkey and Cheddar Cheese, and topped with tomatoes and hollandaise. I took one look at it and said “there’s no way”, but sure enough I did finish it, and was it every good! Café Milano feels a little like where the Mob would hang out if they ever get to Reno. Lots of curved booths, mood lighting, and mirrors everywhere. I enjoyed hanging out there very much and will be back again someday.
Despite how late it was, and the fact I had a long day with my client ahead of me, I decided to give Lady Luck a try too. I ended up at a Pai Gow table, and played for about half an hour, finishing up $6 (hey, up beats down, right?)
It must have been 1 or 2 in the morning when I finally got to bed, but it had been a really enjoyable day, I guess I didn’t want it to end.
Day 4
Most of my day was spent with my client (whom I don’t wish to divulge.) Work concluded and had me back in Reno at about 5:30 PM or so. I decided I was ready for a dressy dinner, and I headed for Romanza at Peppermill.
Romanza, like everything else within the Peppermill is completely over the top in its décor. It features three statues of Roman hero Antinous and two maidens that rotate every half hour or so. The service is lighting fast and very courteous. Everything about the place is pleasant and enjoyable. I started with their Butternut Squash soup (very nice) and had their Chicken Cacciatore for my entrée (good, not great.) It was a wonderful meal, and at a very reasonable price (I got out for less then $40 with tip.)
I headed back to the casino floor of Peppermill, but Lady Luck decided to stay behind this time, as my buy-in quickly disappeared at their blackjack, craps, and pai gow tables. Again, not much fun to lose.
I opted to head to my room and soak in my hot tub with the TV on. This ended up being a very relaxing way to end the day and leave me feeling ready to face Day 2 with my client. All in all, not a bad day!
Day 5
Once I was done with my client, I ended up back in my hotel room around 4:30 PM or so. I was very tired, but it occurred to me that I could add Lake Tahoe to my week if I could just pull it together and make the ride out in the car. I grabbed my iPad and found an interesting looking restaurant called “Sushi Pier” that advertised all you can eat Sushi (sounds like fun!) I was soon en route to the Stateline, NV/Lake Tahoe area.
This was only my second visit to this area, and the first where I arrived in daylight. The ride in from Reno is a lot of fun. It included a stop along Hwy 395 at a place called Chocolate Nugget Candy Factory, who list their address as being in Carson City, but they’re a little outside of there.
I’m still technically on a diet (have maintained my weight loss from 2009), but I’m a sucker for handmade candy. The Chocolate Nugget Candy Factory offers a wide, wide selection of different confections, including fudge, cashew/peanut/almond brittle, licorice sticks, and other temptations. The staff was so pleasant to talk to as well. I couldn’t leave empty handed, and I can attest weeks later that everything I bought from there was very good.
The ride to Tahoe gets interesting once you’re past Carson City, and involves a lot of twists and turns along a mountain route. The views of the Lake once you get close to town are incredible. I would love to come back to just Tahoe and spend a day or two exploring the terrain.
I soon arrived at my chosen restaurant for my final meal of the trip. Sushi Pier can be found just outside of the area where the casinos are, and for a very low price they will feed you all the Sushi you care to eat. I was very impressed with how fresh everything was, and especially impressed with how laid back and friendly the chefs were. A highly recommended stop to be sure.
Before too long, I was pulling onto the Lake Tahoe Strip, such as it is. The casinos of Lake Tahoe seem almost frozen in time from the outside. There have been a few ownership changes (with Caesars owning almost every joint in town now), but the building exteriors seem to be cast in stone from a time long ago. They look a lot like what pictures of Las Vegas was 30 years ago.
I started with the Horizon, which at one time had been the Sahara Tahoe. This had been Elvis’ haunt when he would come to Tahoe, and I wanted to check it out. It is a rather pathetic property now. No tables, although you can kind of eyeball where the table pit used to be. Randomly placed slot machines, pool tables, and a staff that seems very depressed and sad. Elvis would probably not be real happy with what has become of his former hangout. There was only one final piece of information I wanted to get. It turns out that the suite Elvis used to stay in is available to guests, and I wanted to find out what the cost was. It might be the only thing worth doing at the Horizon, and it will set you back $2000 if you want to do it. Not on my budget (lol.)
I exited the front door and headed to the Montbleu for what would be the last (and most frustrating) gambling session of the trip. I spent just a little time walking around and trying to imagine what it was like when this place had been Caesars Palace. Like the other Tahoe properties, the crowd felt a little smaller and quieter then Reno, and certainly much more so then Vegas and even Laughlin.
The gambling began with a session at the craps table, which was mostly a downer that ended with a desperation $5 bet on each of the hardways. Well, one of them actually came in. I had $60 in my hand and could have walked out only down $40, but I ended up at the damn Roulette wheel, where I got up to $80, but was determined to get back up to even. It didn’t happen, and I lost the most bitter $100 I’ve lost in a long, long time. It was completely my own fault at not knowing when to say when, but it was a bitter pill to swallow all the same. The frustration and embarrassment of that loss stayed with me for almost a week afterward.
Needless to say it was a long, quiet ride back to Reno that night.
Day 6:
I was up at 3:50 AM and on my way home a short time later – nothing to report other then a safe trip home.
Epilogue 1:
It seems that losing money is starting to frustrate me a whole lot more then it used to. My brother made the comment during this week that the enjoyment from winning was not outpacing the anger at losing anymore. I think I know what he means. Mind you, none of the money I lost put me in the poor house, but it was bitterly frustrating at the same time. As always, nothing is final, and I suspect I will be back at the craps table again someday, but for now – I plan to stay away for a while.
That being said, I think I’m also going to be done with Las Vegas for a time. As much as I love the town, and I do love her very much; there seems to be less and less to do there that I am genuinely looking forward to. And the cost is becoming very distracting. It is so expensive to visit, so expensive to eat, so expensive to do anything there. To spend months saving up $2000 to burn through in a week doesn’t feel right anymore.
My 12 year old son and I take a trip together every summer. I’ve already told him that I will take him to Las Vegas when he turns 21. Perhaps that will be my next trip to the town.
Epilogue 2:
This was a trip with many good and a few bad points. I enjoyed living the experience, and I hope you found this trip report interesting to read. I wish you all the best and lots of good times in Las Vegas or wherever else life takes you!
This past March 26-30, I had a chance to string together a rather nice little week in Nevada that was some work and some play, and I thought you would enjoy reading about it. The play portion ended up being somewhat disappointing, but the trip had more then a few highlights, here goes:
Day 1:
I arrive at the airport and settle in for the flight. The time for boarding comes, goes and slowly but surely the night gets later. After about 25 minutes without an explanation, the gate agent makes an announcement that I’ve never heard before. She tells us that the plane at the gate had been in storage for a few days, and as she put it “needs to be aired out.” We watched as they opened all of the plane’s doors and attempted to get the stink out. This went on for about 15 minutes, and we were finally told they couldn’t get the stink out. We were told to get over to the next gate over and board there. But this required an insane amount of time on the computer as the new plane wasn’t exactly the same configuration as the previous one. When all was said and done we lost nearly 45 minutes due to a stinky plane!
The rest of the journey to Vegas went well, and we even made up a little time on the way there. I had made some plans for my night in Vegas, and as we journeyed there I felt that perhaps some of those plans might still hold. But those hopes were dashed a bit more when I arrived to find the rental car line was ridiculously long.
I have been an Enterprise devotee for many years now. My company rents with Budget, so I have no choice there, but if it’s up to me, I generally don’t rent with anyone else. However, with money being so tight on this occasion, I went against my better judgment and made a cheaper reservation with Dollar. I will never ever rent from Dollar again. There were at least 10 people in line, and only two people to service them. Another 45 minutes of my evening was lost. I finally pulled out onto Las Vegas Blvd at about 10:45 PM.
My plans had originally called for dinner at Le Burger Brassiere, but that was well out the window at this point. So I headed for the Bellagio, thinking I’d be able to catch the next fountain show. I parked and walked briskly from the parking garage to the street, passing by a rather scantily clad young lady on my way. We had about a minute and a half in the elevator, and I commented about her shoes “Don’t those hurt?” which got a giggle out of her. Call me Mr. Smooth I guess.
I made it to the street in front of the fountains at about 11:13, and thought that I’d timed it well to see the 11:15 show. I waited, and waited, and waited, and nothing happened. Finally, at about 11:28, an announcement came that the fountains would not be performing that evening due to high winds. Seriously? High f**king winds is your excuse? I was furious. I felt like I’d fought my way though heaven and earth to get there, and for what? To be told there would be no show.
My hunger came on like a hurricane, but at that point I felt completely unprepared. I know there are plenty of late night joints in Vegas, but at that point there were none that I really felt like eating at. I opted to head into Cosmopolitan and head for the Secret Pizzeria. I had two slices of White Pie (amazingly good) and felt a little better. The vibe in that place is a lot of fun, and it might be the most reasonably priced good food on the Strip.
I walked back over to the Bellagio and made my way to the Conservatory. It was done up with a theme that I think was supposed to evoke Springtime in Holland. There was a full size carousel, windmill, and lots of wooden shoes. As always, the Conservatory is a wonderful little place to escape and feel peaceful. It remains one of my favorite spots in the world.
I made my way back to the car, and headed out to Las Vegas Blvd, telling myself I would enjoy the drive up the Strip to my hotel downtown. But getting up the Strip was not to be that night, as I ended up in a monster traffic jam. I finally bailed and turned at O Shea’s, heading up the street and past the huge construction pit that I assume is someday to be part of Project Linq. This was to be the extent of my time on the Strip for this trip, very disappointing as you might imagine.
I made my way up Paradise Rd to Main Street and worked my way over to the Plaza for a late checkin. This too, proved to be frustrating as there was only one available checkin agent for a line of about 7 people. I finally got up to my room at nearly 1AM, and should have called it quits, but I ignored all the obvious signs and decided to head back out for some late night gambling.
I fired up my Hoyo de Monterrey and walked up Fremont Street to the Four Queens, settling in at a $5 Blackjack table with a $40 buy-in. Three hands later it was all gone. I walked a bit further, and finally made it to the D Las Vegas (my intended destination.) Being a Detroit man myself, I’m a little tickled that “The D” is going to be part of the Vegas lingo now. The transition is in the very early stages, but I thought the new table felts looked cool, and the Long Bar looked like a lot of fun too. I bought in for the last of my bankroll at another blackjack table, and again it did not last long. If I ever get back to Vegas I will have to re-visit the D.
It was a hell of a long walk back to the Plaza after such a brutal beatdown, but I did make it. As I eased into bed, I told myself that hopefully the next day would be better. It certainly couldn’t go much worse…
Day 2:
I awoke and found I was totally not hungry, so my breakfast plans went out the window. It felt so strange, but I desperately just wanted to get the hell out of Las Vegas. I got to my rental car and made my way up the street the California to get some candy at Ethel M. I was shocked to find how expensive it has become. 12 pieces will now set you back $21. To pay $1.75 a piece for a small piece of candy is a little rich. It’s very good candy, but I’m not sure you can justify that type of expense for it.
From the California I made my way out to the expressway, and was soon en route to Laughlin. I decided that I better be smart and pulled off briefly to get a meal bar and a bottle of water, but beyond that the drive was straight through. I’ve always enjoyed the beauty of the desert on the way, and with the ride being 75MPH and straight as an arrow most of the way there, it’s a fun drive too.
I arrived in Laughlin fairly early (around 1PM) and made my way to the Aquarius. I told myself that I’d try for an early check-in, and if unsuccessful I would check my bags until I could get into a room. As it happened, I was able to get into a room right away, and did very well with a Strip/River facing room. The Aquarius is a really nice hotel that gives the rest of Laughlin something to shoot for. I’ve always been so pleased with how comfortable and clean the room is.
I headed for the Starbucks to grab a Chai Tea Latte and get a few emails sent (this technically still being a work week) and met up with my brother. I was so pleased to see my brother looking so well. The last few years have been a bit of a roller coaster for him, but I think he’s managed to find some new balance in his professional and personal life, which is great. We didn’t have too aggressive of a day planned, so we started with a late lunch (which I was definitely ready for.)
We headed to the Golden Nugget and back to Harlows, which had been such a great choice the last time. The food was equally good this time, and I enjoyed a wonderful piece of grilled Salmon. From there we walked a bit, taking in the riverwalk and passing a booth advertising a boat ride along the Colorado river for only $10. I thought that sounded like good fun, and plans to take the boat ride were made for the next day.
Our day continued at the Riverside Auto Collection, which is still very impressive. I am not a car guy at all, but I can certainly enjoy a museum of automobiles (I am from Detroit after all!) The Riverside collection includes many beauties, from a number of eras. They have Chevelles, Edsels, Corvettes, Mustangs, Continentals, Packards, a Tucker, and even a Deloreon. There are even several older gaming tables and slot machines on display. A few of the cars are even available for sale. I’ve often wondered if an ultra high roller has ever been allowed to just walk into the museum and take his pick (probably not.)
We grabbed the car and made our way across town to the Avi for a movie. It might just be a case of perspective from the seats, but it feels like the screens at the Avi are bigger then the average movie theater. Our movie on this occasion was “21 Jump Street”, which couldn’t have been a better choice, as we were absolutely belly laughing from start to finish. Afterward my brother decided he was hungry, and grabbed a quick slice of pizza at the Sbarro at the Avi. For my part, I wasn’t quite ready for another meal.
We headed back to the Aquarius and parked the car again, headed once again to the riverwalk, and walked some more (we seem to wear out our share of foot leather whenever we visit.) I grabbed a quick meal at McDonalds and we made our way to the Tropicana for some gambling. The pit crews at Tropicana are very laid back, and I enjoyed a nice half hour session that ended with me breaking about even.
I bid my brother goodbye and ended up on the casino floor at the Aquarius, anxious to try the new “big dice” game. This is a computer craps game but with a twist of actual (if oversized) dice in the middle. It feels like a more fair shake then other versions of computerized craps. I enjoyed a 20 minute session for $5. I would recommend this game highly to anyone who wants to give craps a try without stepping up to the actual table just yet.
It had been a wonderful day, with more to come tomorrow.
Day 3:
The day began with breakfast at the Black Bear in Bullhead City. This has been a constant of my visits with my brother. I suppose it feels a little bit like we’ve stepped into the Upper Peninsula of Michigan and have pulled into a roadside diner. The food remains as good as ever, and the atmosphere is pleasant and downhome. I fielded a call from work and was asked to send an important file to a client, so we headed back to the Aquarius and over to the Starbucks for the free wi-fi to send the file.
From there it was a short walk back to the ticket booth to secure our ticket for the boat ride, which was about 45 minutes from starting. We killed some time on the Edgewater casino floor and in short order we were boarding the boat for the little ride.
As many times as I’ve visited my brother, we’ve never bothered with a boat ride before. I suppose it has simply been a case of having other things to do. This little boat ride was priced just right, and felt like the right amount of time as well. We learned a number of interesting little factoids during the ride. A few that I found most interesting included:
• The current look of the Golden Nugget can be attributed to Steve Wynn, who owned the Golden Nugget in Vegas at the time the Laughlin property was purchased and re-branded. This made a lot of sense to me, as the floral and water based scenery at the main entrance definitely has Steve Wynn’s design touch (very similar to the Mirage.) The overall ambiance of the casino floor feels a lot like the casino floors that Steve designs also. I guess it should have occurred to me sooner, but it didn’t;
• There is a suite of rooms at the top of the Edgewater with a very interesting story. At the time that Circus Circus acquired the properties that became the Edgewater and Colorado Belle, they designed a major expansion of rooms, and wanted to properly connect the two properties. But this was impossible due to a little old lady who owned the small parcel of land between them with her trailer on it. According to the tour, it finally took $2.5 million dollars (tax free) and a suite of rooms at the top of the new tower for her to sell her land. Sadly, she passed away just before she was to move into her new home. Another story I’d never heard before;
• At one time, there was an ice rink in Laughlin! When the Edgewater was originally built, it included an ice rink for people who were inclined to skate. I cannot imagine the cost it took to keep the ice frozen and smooth; and
• The water that flows from the Davis Dam in front of the casinos is still at a bone chilling 55 degrees, despite the distance that it has traveled at that point from the mountains of Colorado. This makes the River a tough swim no matter how hot the outside temperature is.
There were many other little trinkets of knowledge that I learned on that boat ride. It was one of the best parts of the trip, and a highly recommended item to anybody who visits Laughlin.
Our visit was nearly over, but with about two hours left, my brother and I reasoned that a visit to the Petroglyphs was not out of the question. We grabbed the car and headed up Route 163 to Christmas Tree Pass. A few miles later and we were upon the infamous canyon where the Petroglyphs can be found. The rugged beauty of Nevada can be found in a lot of places, but this area is probably one of my favorites. We only had about 25 minutes for our stop, but we certainly made the most of our time there, taking several pictures. This is an item that is definitely not for everybody, but I’m glad we did it.
This had been, by far, the best visit my brother and I had had in years, and I literally had to tear myself away from him to be sure that I would get to Vegas in time for my flight. Fortunately, the ride went without incident, and I was at my gate about 45 minutes ahead of schedule. As the plane took off, I took a quick last look at the Strip, perhaps for the last time for quite a while (more on that later.)
The flight to Reno went perfectly, and it was nice to be on a direct flight again. We arrived just before 11PM, and in short order I was in my rental car and on my way to the Peppermill.
The Peppermill is truly an extraordinary property. It reminds me a little bit of the slogan for Hooters, delightfully tacky, if unrefined. In the Peppermill’s case, the slogan might be “Delightfully tacky, AND refined.” The whole place is a study in over the top luxury, lots of bright colors, lots of plush comfort, lots of stimulation overload. I really wish there were a few places in Vegas like this, but I digress.
My check-in went very smoothly, and I was soon in my room, or should I say my Alpha Male Pimp Daddy Party Palace? The Imperial Suite at the Peppermill (not even their best room) might be the most fun hotel room I’ve ever stayed at, anywhere. The only room I can think of that tops it is probably the time I stayed at The Venetian. It easily trumps the rooms I’ve had at MGM Grand, Bellagio, THE Hotel at Mandalay Bay, and Golden Nugget. For starters, the carpet feels like it’s an inch thick. It was absolutely divine to walk around barefoot in my room. I can’t think of any other hotel where I’ve had this type of reaction to the carpeting (who thinks of those things?) The televisions are huge flatscreens, with a very nice selection of channels. The hot tub is right in the middle of the bedroom, and below one of the three televisions (nice!) The furniture is all swanky and again, super comfortable. Jumping into the bed feels like you’ve landed on a cloud. It seemed amazing to me that a room of this caliber was mine for under $100 a night, but there it was.
I was finally hungry, so I headed for the Café Milano. I decided I was ready for something a little decadent, so I went for the Peppermill Omelet. It’s an insane concoction that would make Hash House a Go Go proud, with at least 4 eggs (probably 5), Turkey and Cheddar Cheese, and topped with tomatoes and hollandaise. I took one look at it and said “there’s no way”, but sure enough I did finish it, and was it every good! Café Milano feels a little like where the Mob would hang out if they ever get to Reno. Lots of curved booths, mood lighting, and mirrors everywhere. I enjoyed hanging out there very much and will be back again someday.
Despite how late it was, and the fact I had a long day with my client ahead of me, I decided to give Lady Luck a try too. I ended up at a Pai Gow table, and played for about half an hour, finishing up $6 (hey, up beats down, right?)
It must have been 1 or 2 in the morning when I finally got to bed, but it had been a really enjoyable day, I guess I didn’t want it to end.
Day 4
Most of my day was spent with my client (whom I don’t wish to divulge.) Work concluded and had me back in Reno at about 5:30 PM or so. I decided I was ready for a dressy dinner, and I headed for Romanza at Peppermill.
Romanza, like everything else within the Peppermill is completely over the top in its décor. It features three statues of Roman hero Antinous and two maidens that rotate every half hour or so. The service is lighting fast and very courteous. Everything about the place is pleasant and enjoyable. I started with their Butternut Squash soup (very nice) and had their Chicken Cacciatore for my entrée (good, not great.) It was a wonderful meal, and at a very reasonable price (I got out for less then $40 with tip.)
I headed back to the casino floor of Peppermill, but Lady Luck decided to stay behind this time, as my buy-in quickly disappeared at their blackjack, craps, and pai gow tables. Again, not much fun to lose.
I opted to head to my room and soak in my hot tub with the TV on. This ended up being a very relaxing way to end the day and leave me feeling ready to face Day 2 with my client. All in all, not a bad day!
Day 5
Once I was done with my client, I ended up back in my hotel room around 4:30 PM or so. I was very tired, but it occurred to me that I could add Lake Tahoe to my week if I could just pull it together and make the ride out in the car. I grabbed my iPad and found an interesting looking restaurant called “Sushi Pier” that advertised all you can eat Sushi (sounds like fun!) I was soon en route to the Stateline, NV/Lake Tahoe area.
This was only my second visit to this area, and the first where I arrived in daylight. The ride in from Reno is a lot of fun. It included a stop along Hwy 395 at a place called Chocolate Nugget Candy Factory, who list their address as being in Carson City, but they’re a little outside of there.
I’m still technically on a diet (have maintained my weight loss from 2009), but I’m a sucker for handmade candy. The Chocolate Nugget Candy Factory offers a wide, wide selection of different confections, including fudge, cashew/peanut/almond brittle, licorice sticks, and other temptations. The staff was so pleasant to talk to as well. I couldn’t leave empty handed, and I can attest weeks later that everything I bought from there was very good.
The ride to Tahoe gets interesting once you’re past Carson City, and involves a lot of twists and turns along a mountain route. The views of the Lake once you get close to town are incredible. I would love to come back to just Tahoe and spend a day or two exploring the terrain.
I soon arrived at my chosen restaurant for my final meal of the trip. Sushi Pier can be found just outside of the area where the casinos are, and for a very low price they will feed you all the Sushi you care to eat. I was very impressed with how fresh everything was, and especially impressed with how laid back and friendly the chefs were. A highly recommended stop to be sure.
Before too long, I was pulling onto the Lake Tahoe Strip, such as it is. The casinos of Lake Tahoe seem almost frozen in time from the outside. There have been a few ownership changes (with Caesars owning almost every joint in town now), but the building exteriors seem to be cast in stone from a time long ago. They look a lot like what pictures of Las Vegas was 30 years ago.
I started with the Horizon, which at one time had been the Sahara Tahoe. This had been Elvis’ haunt when he would come to Tahoe, and I wanted to check it out. It is a rather pathetic property now. No tables, although you can kind of eyeball where the table pit used to be. Randomly placed slot machines, pool tables, and a staff that seems very depressed and sad. Elvis would probably not be real happy with what has become of his former hangout. There was only one final piece of information I wanted to get. It turns out that the suite Elvis used to stay in is available to guests, and I wanted to find out what the cost was. It might be the only thing worth doing at the Horizon, and it will set you back $2000 if you want to do it. Not on my budget (lol.)
I exited the front door and headed to the Montbleu for what would be the last (and most frustrating) gambling session of the trip. I spent just a little time walking around and trying to imagine what it was like when this place had been Caesars Palace. Like the other Tahoe properties, the crowd felt a little smaller and quieter then Reno, and certainly much more so then Vegas and even Laughlin.
The gambling began with a session at the craps table, which was mostly a downer that ended with a desperation $5 bet on each of the hardways. Well, one of them actually came in. I had $60 in my hand and could have walked out only down $40, but I ended up at the damn Roulette wheel, where I got up to $80, but was determined to get back up to even. It didn’t happen, and I lost the most bitter $100 I’ve lost in a long, long time. It was completely my own fault at not knowing when to say when, but it was a bitter pill to swallow all the same. The frustration and embarrassment of that loss stayed with me for almost a week afterward.
Needless to say it was a long, quiet ride back to Reno that night.
Day 6:
I was up at 3:50 AM and on my way home a short time later – nothing to report other then a safe trip home.
Epilogue 1:
It seems that losing money is starting to frustrate me a whole lot more then it used to. My brother made the comment during this week that the enjoyment from winning was not outpacing the anger at losing anymore. I think I know what he means. Mind you, none of the money I lost put me in the poor house, but it was bitterly frustrating at the same time. As always, nothing is final, and I suspect I will be back at the craps table again someday, but for now – I plan to stay away for a while.
That being said, I think I’m also going to be done with Las Vegas for a time. As much as I love the town, and I do love her very much; there seems to be less and less to do there that I am genuinely looking forward to. And the cost is becoming very distracting. It is so expensive to visit, so expensive to eat, so expensive to do anything there. To spend months saving up $2000 to burn through in a week doesn’t feel right anymore.
My 12 year old son and I take a trip together every summer. I’ve already told him that I will take him to Las Vegas when he turns 21. Perhaps that will be my next trip to the town.
Epilogue 2:
This was a trip with many good and a few bad points. I enjoyed living the experience, and I hope you found this trip report interesting to read. I wish you all the best and lots of good times in Las Vegas or wherever else life takes you!
