Question of the Day - 18 July 2007

Your question is a timely one, since July is apparently National Horseradish Month. And we like horseradish, too (Anthony Curtis himself is also of eastern European extraction and is a particular aficionado). And it seems we're not alone: According to the Web site horseradish.org, Americans consume around six million gallons of the stuff annually.

As is our custom, here's a bit of background before we get to the nuts and bolts. Horseradish is a member of the mustard family and it's as innocent as its relatives the humble cauliflower and kale, until you grate or grind the roots. That releases a compound called allyl isothiocyanate, or mustard oil, which is the stuff responsible for setting your nose on fire. Adding vinegar stops the reaction and stabilizes the flavor of this concoction, which is your basic horseradish sauce. Sometimes other ingredients like spices, sugar, salt, cream, beets, or vegetable oil are also added. It's best fresh -- as it ages, it starts to turn brown and lose its oomph.

And one final note on this fine condiment: Horseradish has long been heralded for its medicinal qualities, with uses ranging from a cough expectorant and food-poisoning antidote in medieval Europe to more recent indications that it may help prevent/combat certain cancers.

As far as the brands used by casino eateries are concerned, there's good news and bad.

The good news is that we've tracked down two of the major brands, namely Beaver Xtra Hot Horseradish (Bellagio buffet) and Atomic Horseradish (Cortez Room and elsewhere at the Gold Coast). When we sampled the latter during a recent review for LVA, it almost made our eyeballs bleed -- but in that "it hurts so good" kinda way that sent us back a couple of weeks later for more!

The less-good news is that neither brand is available via any regular retail outlet; they are, however, available online from a variety of sources, so just Google your chosen brand and find the best price.

"Another one that even says on its label "Extra Good 'n' Hot" is Silver Spring, which is often available either in the kosher section of supermarkets or in kosher markets. But they do have a website too. It's at: www.silverspringsfoods.com. As for horseradish with coloring Silver Spring also has Prepared Horseradish with Beets. "I have not had either (because I can't take spicy [hot] stuff) so I can't directly comment on them, but my family finds the Extra Good and Hot Prepared Horseradish quite potent!" 07/18/2007 Another reader story:
• Here's my horseradish story. On my birthday some years ago my mother decided she wanted to take me out for dinner as a gift. We went to a fairly nice restaurant and I ordered a steak and baked potato an when the food came they also had fresh baked bread. Well I was enjoying my meal and we were having some good conversation when I grabbed a piece of bread and piled on what I thought was butter (the lighting was low), I then took a big bite of this bomb I had made and all of a sudden I thought I was having a heart attack, my vision crossed and because tunneled, my breath was completely taken away and my ears rang a little bit. I had no clue what was happening to me but after a few minutes when I could breath again I realized what had happened. I guess I should mention that I have never enjoyed horseradish but after this experience I now hate horseradish. There should be some sort of coloring added to this stuff so that people who are not paying attention (like me) can see what they are eating. At least one good thing came out of this, I now know what a heart attack is going to feel like if I ever have one (all except for the pain)."
Binion's feedback: It's Atomic that they serve in the steakhouse, and the mild version, not the extra hot. In the coffee shop, they make their own. Here's some more:
• "Here in California the 'Beaver' brand is available in local supermarkets, e.g., Ralphs and Von's. I believe that Trader Joe's carries it also. Just remember that Beaver makes several different varities of their Oregon-based horseradish. Good luck in locating it locally!"
Thanks to everyone for the following feedback:
• "I am from back east and have my horseradish sent to me all over the US from Leo Dick & Sons out of Canton, OH. I don't have the phone number in front of me but you should be able to Google it. I had to laugh at this question as horseradish is one of those thing I am very perticular about." We did indeed Google it -- here's the toll free number for ordering Dick's Horseradish: 888/544.0399
• "Greetings. Was just reading today's QOD about horseradish, especially the Atomic brand. I was at a buffet downtown about 5 years ago and accidentally inhaled with a mouthful of what I thought was cottage cheese on my salad, which was next to the roast beef. Well, I almost choked! That stuff is unbelievable! Lesson Learned: To hell with decorum in a public setting -- spit it out!!!"
• "Beaver Brand horseradish is sold in the northeastern part of PA."
• "Regarding the horseradish question, I'm half Polish on my mother's side and do enjoy topping my kielbasa with a dab of horseradish. In my opinion, the most potent HR is served at Binion's Ranch Steakhouse as an accompaniment to their crab cocktail. A word of warning if you decide to try it, BE CAREFUL!"