Question of the Day - 18 March 2008

French onion soup is one of those classics that’s beautiful in its simplicity and, when well-executed with the correct ingredients, is absolutely delicious. Unfortunately, it’s often at best a disappointment and at worst absolutely repulsive: dishwater broth with a soggy grilled cheese sandwich floating on top, or some ghastly thick greasy onion stew that requires a fork to eat (or it would -- if you actually wanted to consume it).

Some recipes lend themselves to improvisation; onion soup isn't one of them. We’ve seen formulas that call for soy sauce, mushrooms, miso, red wine, Tabasco, tomato paste, nutritional yeast, hamburger buns (no joke), parmesan, provolone, and even mozzarella -- it’s French onion soup for crying out loud. NO! The best versions just stick to the basics -- unsalted butter, caramelized onions, beef stock, kosher salt, black pepper, dry sherry, French bread, and Gruyère cheese -- and use ingredients of the highest quality (good stock -- preferably home-made -- is vital, for example).

Although we love a good French onion soup, the fear of getting a bad one sometimes puts us off (just penning this answer triggered a horrible flashback to one of the thick greasy dishwasher catastrophes we were presented with in an L.A. hotel a couple of years ago). Plus, it's one of those hearty winter soups for which we don't always have a taste in the sweaty heat of a Las Vegas summer. That's not to say we haven't frequently been in the mood, however, and what follows is a list of ones we've tried and liked over the years. We've included the date we tried them, since some of these meals were eaten some years ago, so we can't necessarily vouch for the quality today.

To answer your specific question accurately, the home of our all-time favorite French onion soup is a brasserie called L'Arbuci, located at 25 rue de Buci. The bad news is that, as the address suggests, it's in Paris; the better news is that we've heard it's deteriorated in quality since we last ate there (2005), so we can all be consoled by the fact that we're probably not missing anything if we don't make it over there.

As far as our favorite French onion soups in Las Vegas are concerned, yes, we concur that Mon Ami Gabi serves a good one (last tried June 2006). Austin's was excellent (Jan. '08), as was T-Bones Chophouse at Red Rock (Sept. '06). We reviewed Ruth's Chris West in Nov. 2003, but we eat there regularly and can confirm that the caliber of the French onion there remains consistently high. Alizé at the Palms served a good one (May '02) and we were surprised by how good Marino's at Hooters was (March '06). We'd figure the Eiffel Tower would serve a good one, but it wasn't on the menu when we ate there recently.

We haven't tried it but have read repeatedly that Café Bellagio serves a very good French onion soup, while we'd wager that Marché Bacchus and André's also excel in this department. If anyone out there has tried any of these or has any other recommendations, as always, let us know.

Bon appétit!

We haven't been there yet, but while looking up something else on the menu at the Light Group's new Brand steakhouse at the Monte Carlo, we noted that they offer, "Classic Onion Soup - $10 - Gruyère Cheese Gratin, Sour Dough Crouton, Aged Sherry Vinegar." 03/18/2008 Keep it comin'!

• "I had a great French onion soup at Antonio's in the Rio a few years back. It was served in a giant onion and was just excellent. If they haven't changed the recipe, then it should be included on your list."
• " I too am a hugh fan and try it often. The Capital Grille at Fashion Show Mall has outstanding French onion soup. In fact, the Capital Grille boasts about its FOS quality. In Vegas, and here in Pittsburgh, it is consistantly one of the better FOSs I get."
• "Mimis Cafe serves a decent French onion soup. Ask for it well browned."
• " Two of the best places I have had French onion soup are Jason's Deli and Mimis Cafe."
More:
• "I have a recommendation for French onion soup. Sugar and Ice at Wynn has the best French onion soup that I have ever tasted. I highly recommend it."
• "I was very disappointed when the Centerstage at the Plaza closed. Their prime rib dinner with the french onion soup was always one of the highlights of my semi-annual trips. The same soup appears to be served now at the Vegas Club Great Moments Room, but the only time I tried it there it had so much cheese over the top it took a while to fight through to the soup. I'll try again this weekend when I am in town for the hoops mania at all the sports books!"
• "The Range at Harrah's is amazing; it's actually served in a carved-out onion!"
• "Next time you are out please try the French onion in the Flamingo coffee shop. The soup was surprisingly good and I make several stops every time I visit Las Vegas. The broth was rich, dark in color, and very flavorful. There are so many deliciously tender onions that it can serve as a meal. The wheat garlicky croutons add the most interesting flavor. The cheese I believe is a mix of Swiss and Gruyère that is to die for. Lightly caramelized in the middle but not too much to ruin to the flavor. The plated presentation is great as it is served in a piping hot cast iron bowl with a sprig of fresh parsley. If you consider yourself a French Onion connoisseur then you must check out this fine rendition of a French classic!"
• "Marché Bacchus had GREAT French onion until they changed ownership. Food has gone down considerably from when Gregory & Agathe had it. The oinion soup was mediocre to bad. Bland, colorless ... what a disappointment. DO NOT recommend!"
• "My wife and I almost always stop by the Carson Street Cafe at Golden Nugget when we are in town for their excellent French Onion Soup. They serve a large crock of soup with a heavy beefy broth topped with cheese flowing down the side of the crock. TOOOO GOOD!"
Here comes the feedback:
• "In your Locals Corner a couple of years ago you raved about the soup at Josette's Bistro. It is much better than what is served at Mon Ami Gabi."
[Ed: You are correct -- we did, and it was. Good call.]
• "I love the 5 Cheese Onion Soup at The Range Steak House at Harrahs...only complaint the bread bowl could be twice the size!!!"
• "I was really pleased with the Onion soup at Binions coffee shop. I didn't have to cut my vacation short because of the price. It showed they really put alot into it and I order it every time I eat there."
• "I read an article years and years ago where a restaurant critic judged a restaurant by their French onion soup. Every place he went he would order it if it was on the menu. One very expensive fancy restaurant seved it and he found part of the envelope from a Lipton onion soup package in his bowl!"