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Question of the Day - 31 October 2008

Q:
A large group of us (15) are meeting in Vegas and want to have dinner at an old-school Rat Pack-style Italian restaurant with large tables, great spaghetti, and killer martinis. Suggestions?
A:

Hmm. A few places spring to mind that fit some of those criteria, but it'll be hard to accommodate all of them in one place, so something might have to give.

If your question had come in a couple of years ago, our top recommendation would probably have been Capozzoli’s, a classic old-style Las Vegas Italian restaurant that was located at 3333 S. Maryland Pkwy. and an established favorite with the entertainment crowd (Tom Jones was known to show up and jam from time to time after a show). The décor was casual, there was a bar, and it served decent traditional Italian fare until late. The main draw was the atmosphere, however, and it featured dancing nightly to the strains of a live band performing jazz standards, Sinatra songs, etc.

Sadly, Capozzoli's burned down last year and hasn't reopened. So we put on our thinking caps and came up with three other suggestions.

  • Top of the list would be Casa di Amore, which was the featured LVA Locals Corner in the August 2005 issue. Here's what we wrote then and it still holds true today: "This is a bona fide 24-hour dining spot. Although special menus appear late-night and at lunch and there're bound to be times when something's not available, just about everything on the menu can usually be ordered day and night. That includes pizzas ($12-$18) that rate with the city’s best. Least impressive in our audits have been the basic pastas. You might want to try one of the meat or fish dishes, including an outstanding osso buco for $28 or what we hear is an equally impressive cioppino for $30.

    "Evenings feature live entertainment beginning at 7 (good jazz groups and the like). The music extends past midnight, when an after-shift late-night crowd shows up. The décor is old Vegas. The patrons are old New York, Chicago, and Detroit. There's even a decent slot club with daily hot-card promotions and potential free-play vouchers via the mail. The video poker schedules are in the 97% range at best (e.g., 6/5 Bonus), but just putting $40 in the machine gets you a comp from a good player’s menu, plus your drinks."

    There's a bar, which we're sure serves martinis, although we couldn't vouch for them being "killer," as we've stuck with beer and wine when we've visited. It's mainly old-style booth seating, with tables in the middle, but they offer a banquet service and are used to catering big parties -- just give them fair warning about your big party, so they can arrange things for you appropriately (702/384-4470). Oh, and they also offer a free limo service, which might be fun for your party (ask about it when you make your reservation).

  • Our second choice would be the Golden Steer (Local Corner Feb. 2007): "In the all-new Las Vegas, it's sometimes fun to take a step back in time. And that's what you do when you walk into the Golden Steer, located about a quarter mile west of the Strip on Sahara. This place is old-school and it should be —- having opened in 1960, it's one of the oldest restaurants in Las Vegas. The bar and dining room are furnished in heavy dark wood, plush semi-circular high-backed booths, and memorabilia from the Rat Pack days. Frank, Dino, Sammy, Joey, and a host of heyday celebs ate here regularly, and plaques designating where they sat hang over selected booths (other famous guests include John Wayne, Tony "The Ant" Spilotro, Joe DiMaggio, Mario Andretti, and Elvis). Many on the wait staff have been here well over a decade (some over 30 years) and if you schmooze 'em a little, they just might 'take care of ya' (we were given two $12 martinis on the house, just because).

    "The food? It's good. Steaks range from $32 for a petite filet to the $65 28-ounce porterhouse (most are $37-$42). Italian specialties are $24-$29, appetizers are $12-$16, sides are $5-$8, and cherries Jubilee or bananas Foster prepared tableside go for $12. You’ll like the meal, but the food definitely plays second fiddle to the joint."

    This is the the priciest of the three joints we're recommending and it's not Italian, but there are plenty "Italian Specialties" on the menu and they do have two private dining rooms, one for up to 42 and one for up to 18, which could be perfect for your party. Give 'em a call and see, if this sounds like it fits the bill (702/384-4470).

    Suggestion #3 is the Bootlegger Bistro (Local Corner Aug. 2003). The original restaurant, which opened in 1972 at Eastern and Tropicana, is gone; the new location is next door to the Belz Outlet Mall. Here's the gist of what we said about it in 2003, updated to reflect a few changes. "You can get a good plate of pasta at the Bootlegger, but that’s not what sets this place apart. This is one of Las Vegas’ truly 'in' night-spots —- a place where showpeople from all over the city gather to relax and sometimes jam. ... There’s live entertainment nightly, with open mic nights for 'special guests' (generally performers from production shows around town and sometimes headliner talent) several nights a week." The Bootlegger serves food around the clock, with a discounted late-night menu (11 p.m.-6 a.m.) that includes pasta dinners for as little as $6.95. Regular-hours prices run $12 to $20 for pastas and under $30 for veal and steaks. They have a couple of private dining rooms if they can't accommodate you in the main restaurant.

    The final suggestion comes from a reader who saw today's answer previewed yesterday and wanted to make sure we didn't leave out Carluccio's Tivoli Gardens, which also happens to be a favorite of an LVA staffer, who had this to say about it: "Carluccio's is indeed old school. The spaghetti is good (not great), but the atmosphere is ridiculous. The owners haven't redecorated since the property was owned by Liberace, so there's a VERY dark bar area, a private room with a mirrored piano, the main seating area has an atrium with fountains, and a few side rooms for patrons which feature palm-frond wallpaper and those awesome peacock rattan chairs from the '70s. "I've been eating there for more than 20 years on the strength of one dish: chicken livers tarragon -- chicken livers sautéed with loads of garlic and tarragon with mushrooms over linguini noodles. They also make good gnocchi as well as cavatelli with meat sauce. The food is not gourmet, it's work-a-day Italian, but it's quality and the place has great character."

    Good luck, have fun, and let us know where you go and how it works out for you.


    Casa di Amore
    Golden Steer
    Bootlegger Bistro
    Carluccio's
Update 31 October 2008
We've received a lot of feedback and suggestions from readers for other possible restaurants. All those ideas submitted were considered by us and omitted for a variety of reasons (either price, with regard to Piero's or, in the case of Battista's, because we've heard mixed reports of the quality of food there) but they're valid suggestions, so here they are:
  • "Did you consider Battista's Hole-in-the-Wall restaurant on Flamingo and Audrie? Good food, Rat Pack ate there and they can accommodate large parties."
  • "I'd like to throw a contender in the ring: Battista's Hole in the Wall. I'm always telling folks about this great little place on Audrie Street, just a block behind the Flamingo. This place has great food at a reasonable price, wine comes with dinner, the pictures on the wall tell wonderful stories of the celebs who have eaten there, and Gus the accordion player is a treat. I haven't tried their martinis, but they do have a full bar."
  • "How in the world could you not include Piero's on Convention Center Drive. Out of this world pasta-try the linguine and clams. Great martinis and wine. Heck part of the movie Casino was filmed there. If this isn't Old Style Vegas, I don't what is."
  • "I saw that someone had asked you about an Italian restaurant in Vegas that had a Rat Pack feel and great food. Capo's covers that all, it is mob themed and the food is great, we have a singer that does Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin. Please check it out if you get a chance. 5795 W. Tropicana, between Decatur and Jones (702/436-2276). The menu can be seen at urbanspoon.com (our site caposrestaurant.com is under construction)."
  • "For old school Italian, what about Ferraro's? (www.ferraroslasvegas.com)"
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