Unfortunately, The Venetian was a little before my time. But all my friends tell me it was one of those great off-Strip Italian restaurants that had a classic old-Vegas vibe, with solid, traditional Italian cooking. If that’s the type of Italian restaurant you’re looking for, a few places immediately spring to mind.
The first is The Bootlegger Bistro at 7700 Las Vegas Boulevard South (next to the Las Vegas Premium Outlets). The restaurant is owned by singer and former Lieutenant Governor Lorraine Hunt. And while it’s changed location a few times, it’s been in her family for over 60 years. There are no crazy, experimental dishes here, just the kind of traditional pastas and meat dishes your Italian grandmother made (assuming you were lucky enough to have an Italian grandmother). But it’s done well. And the dining room doubles as a small showroom that hosts some of the best entertainers in town. Casino artists big and small regularly drop by to perform unannounced late-night sets after their gigs on the Strip.
Another classic old-Vegas haunt is Casa di Amore. The lighting is dim. Posters of Vegas-gone-by hang on the walls. And a crooner with a keyboard supplies the entertainment every night – including Brooklyn-born George Bugatti, who belts out lounge classics Wednesdays through Saturdays. Once again, the menu relies heavily on Italian classics: chicken francasie; veal marsala; or linguine with clams. But they know how to do them right. And while the location at 2850 E. Tropicana (between Eastern and McCleod) is a bit of a hike, they provide free limousine service to and from any resort. All you have to do is call and ask.
Another great place for the same style Italian food is Nora’s Cuisine at 6020 West Flamingo Road. While the ambience doesn’t live up to The Bootlegger or Casa Di’Amore, the food has made it a favorite of Vegas locals for years.
Finally, if you’re downtown, check out Chicago Joe’s. Located in a converted home at 820 South 4th Street, you really feel like you’re dining in the owner’s kitchen, or living room. It’s the most casual place on my list, so don’t be surprised if the staff sits down at your table to chat. I’ve even had them take out the garbage in front of me! So this isn’t the place for everyone. But the food is solid, and the atmosphere is pretty unique.
Between the four of these, I hope you can find something to replace The Venetian in your hearts. Mangia!
Al Mancini is co-author of, Eating Las Vegas: The 50 Essential Restaurants (Huntington Press, 2011).
