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Question of the Day - 26 February 2012

Q:
Just returned from a trip to LV for Super Bowl weekend. Can you help us find a good steakhouse that has the old charm of red leather chairs, soft music, and of course, good steaks? We used to love the Brown Derby and the old Luxor steakhouse (went to the new one, Tender, the other day: loud, loud music and steaks that were anything but tender). We also like the Golden Steer, but would welcome some other suggestions.
A:

Eating Las Vegas co-author Al Mancini responds:

For an old-Vegas steakhouse experience, my go-to spot is The Steakhouse in Circus Circus. In fact, it was listed as one of the 50 "essential" restaurants in the 2011 edition of Eating Las Vegas. (Unfortunately, Max Jacobson decided to get snobby and veto it in the 2012 edition.)

I should start out by saying that walking through Circus Circus to get there has the potential to ruin your mood for the entire night. But if you can brave the low-rent atmosphere and the young couples with gaggles of kids in tow, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by what an oasis this place is. You’ve got the red leather booths, the tuxedoed staff, the serene ambience, and pictures of cattle on the walls. There’s an exposed aging room where you can see the meat being dry-aged in-house. And the mesquite broiler is located out in the open. To top it all off, the prices are fantastic! (And include soup or salad, and a potato, which usually are offered a la carte in most Vegas steakhouses.)

If you feel like traveling a bit, you might want to try Bob Taylor’s Ranch House. While the mesquite-grilled steak is good, the rest of the food is really just average (or at least it was the last time I ate there). And it doesn’t have as plush a feel as Circus Circus. But the place dates back to 1955 – so there’s no arguing it’s "old Vegas." Even though Taylor sold it more than 30 years ago, a lot of locals still love it for its sense of nostalgia.

Finally, if you’re willing to substitute old-New York for Old-Vegas, check out The Old Homestead, which recently opened in Caesars Palace. While it has a slightly modern feel, it’s the sister restaurant of a Big Apple landmark that’s been in operation since 1868. You can find pictures of the food and staff, as well as links to photos of the interior and an interview with the owners on my blog.

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