We passed this question on to Eating Las Vegas co-author Al Mancini. Here's his take on it.
It could be argued that what makes Las Vegas special and unique as a dining destination today is the fact that it's home to among the finest selections in the world of internationally renowned chefs – many of whom don’t operate anywhere else in the U.S. But I’m not going to argue that point here, because I believe what you’re referring to are restaurants with their roots in Las Vegas' past, a distinct breed born of the city's unique cultural and ethnic history. When it comes to those I’m happy to report that yes, we still have plenty.
The Steakhouse at Circus Circus is among my favorites. It’s been here forever and from the moment you walk through the door, it feels like a flashback to the Rat Pack era. Better yet, the prices are absolutely amazing. A steak here, complete with soup or salad, plus a vegetable and a potato, costs less than what most Strip steakhouses charge for a steak alone.
Golden Steer on West Sahara has a very similar vibe and just as great a history (the brass plaques in the red-leather booths indicating that "this was Dino's favorite spot," or "Frank sat here" (I paraphrase) are for real. For my money, however, Circus Circus is a better deal.
While the downtown renaissance will hopefully produce some modern classics that are uniquely "Vegas," the next time you’re on Fremont Street don’t forget Hugo’s Cellar in the Four Queens. Small touches, like presenting a lady with a rose as she enters, and preparing your Caesars salad tableside, are just few of the reasons many have considered this the most romantic restaurant in town for decades.
Classic Italian joints steeped in history can be found all over this city. Ferraro’s recently relocated from its original venue to a larger east-side location, but while its digs across the street from the Hard Rock may be new, Mimo Ferraro is still cooking many of the same recipes his family began offering in 1985 on the west side of town – notably their famed osso buco.
Directly behind The Flamingo, Battista’s Hole In The Wall is still going strong after more than 30 years, with its Chianti bottles on the wall and unlimited house wine. Similarly, the Bootlegger Bistro near the Premium Outlet Mall offers the same recipes former Lt. Governor/showgirl Lorraine Hunt’s family have been serving at various locations since 1972. It also features live entertainment: Plenty of Strip performers and visiting stars have been known to drop by unannounced to work out new material or enjoy an escape from the norm. And Piero's, close to the Convention Center, is not only a blast from the past; with average Strip prices having caught up and, in some instances, overtaken it, this place is no longer looking like the extravagant option it once did.
While Fu (it means "luck") upscale Asian eatery is new to the Hard Rock, owners the Woo family are locals who’ve been serving customers their brand of Chinese-fusion on and off the Strip since 1976, with Mayflower Chinese Restaurant, Mayflower Cuisinier, and more recently the short-lived Woo at Palazzo.
So, as you can see, the heart of "old" Vegas is still beating, represented by plenty of diverse restaurants in the tourist zone. Venture out into the ‘burbs, and you’ll find another slew of newer classics that are also uniquely "Vegas," but I'll save that for Part II...
