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Question of the Day - 16 November 2022

Q:

On our next trip to Las Vegas in May, we're thinking seriously about taking the long side trip to Great Basin National Park. We would rent an RV, so we wouldn't have to camp or sleep in a ratty motel and we'd stay a couple of nights, so we could explore the park in some depth. But with the round-trip drive, it would take up four of our eight-day vacation. Is this worth doing? Or is there a better destination that's closer? 

A:

[Editor's Note: This answer is penned by Deke, author of seven editions of Nevada Handbook. He readily admits that he's biased in favor of "leaving Las Vegas," but he assured us that he'd lay it out for you, then you can make the call.]

It's true. I'm generally in favor of taking the occasional trip to slip the grip of the Strip. But this one sounds especially worthwhile to me.

There are plenty of closer destinations. Valley of Fire, for example, is only an hour northeast and is definitely a trip worth taking, with a couple of campgrounds equipped with shaded picnic tables, grills, water, and restrooms; showers and a dump station are available at one of them (it's first-come first-served until next year, when the Nevada State Parks system is implementing a reservation system). 

Cottonwood Cove is also an hour, but southeast through Searchlight and right on Lake Mohave, with a modern RV park under trees and an easy walk to the water and a resort with houseboat and watercraft rentals, cafe, and minimart. 

Other possibilities include Death Valley (two hours); Oatman, Arizona (a ghost town 45 minutes from Kingman); Zion National Park (two hours 40 minutes); or even Bryce Canyon National Park (four hours).

But if you brave the wilds of remote eastern Nevada, you'll boldly go where a mere fraction of a fraction of Vegas visitors have ever been or even know about and, I dare say, a fraction of local Las Vegans have ever been or even know about. Indeed, welcoming 90,000 visitors per year on average, Great Basin is the 11th least visited national park in the country (six in the top 10 are in Alaska and one's in American Samoa), compared to, say, Zion with five million and the Great Smokeys with nearly 14 million.

On the way, you can do some sightseeing at Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge; Kershaw-Ryan State Park (a surprisingly spectacular canyon with 700-foot-high walls only about two hours from Vegas); Cathedral Gorge State Park; and Lincoln County's old railroad town Caliente, old mining town Pioche, and old Mormon town Panaca.

Great Basin is four and a half hours from Las Vegas door to the visitor's center door. Once you're there, you're in for an experience that plumbs the depths of the Earth and scales the heights of Nevada.

The park preserves the upper half of the eastern side of Wheeler Peak, second highest point in the state (13,065 feet elevation); the visitor center is at 7,000. The guided tour of 10-million-year-old Lehman Caves is worth the entire trip, while Wheeler Peak Campground at 10,000 feet is the highest you can drive on a paved road in Nevada.

From the campground, you can hike to a couple of cool little alpine lakes, a forest of bristlecone pine trees (some more than 3,000 years old), and a viewpoint looking out on one of the most spectacular sights in the Silver State, a mountain bowl with sheer thousand-foot walls all around, the southernmost permanent icefield on the continent, and Wheeler Peak towering above it all. An eight-mile trail from the campground goes all the way to the top of the peak, a five- to six-hour round trip.    

Great Basin is also an International Dark Sky Park, so the stargazing is absolutely incomparable, especially from 10,000 feet in what's considered one of the darkest national parks in the whole 423-park system.

When you come down, stop in at Baker, the town at the base of the park, population 36. Good Mexican restaurant there.

If you take this trip and don't cherish at least a dozen memories, I'll eat my backpack. 

 

No part of this answer may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without the written permission of the publisher.

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Comments

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  • Rick Becker Nov-16-2022
    Did I miss something?
    The questioner wants to visit Great Basin National Park. That is a 4 or 4.5 Hour drive from Vegas.
    
    "But with the round-trip drive, it would take up four of our eight-day vacation."
    Okay, take as long as you want to. What a great place to visit.
    
    "Is this worth doing? Or is there a better destination that's closer?"
    Closer? It's a 4 hour drive, 8 hours round trip out of a scheduled 4 day trip. What will they save if them only drive 2 hours away?
    

  • Kevin Lewis Nov-16-2022
    A nice place, but...
    It's extremely remote, there are virtually no services (I speak from experience, having suffered a vehicle breakdown nearby and having my car towed 100 miles to the nearest garage), the park is mostly undeveloped, and what facilities are nearby are very limited and expensive. The park is small and can easily be covered in an afternoon.
    
    It's pretty, but I've been to places a lot nicer. The Utah parks or the Grand Canyon are much more spectacular and have much better facilities and amenities. That sort of thing matters when your RV blows a frabulation pump or the dweem converter breaks and you're out in the middle of nowhere.

  • Martyn Nov-16-2022
    Try staying in Ely 
    I did this exact trip last July, except that I stayed in Ely for two nights.  Ely is about an hour from Great Basin National Park.  I drove up from Las Vegas, visiting Caliente and Cathedral Gorge along the way.  I stayed at the Prospector Hotel in Ely, which I would recommend.  I took the Lehman Caves tour, and I rode an old Steam Engine at the Nevada Northern Railway in Ely.  It was a fun trip. The drive up along the Great Basin Highway #93 was fun too, but the return trip along Highway #6 and #318 was very dull.  Overall, it was a fun excursion, I would do it again. 

  • Martyn Nov-16-2022
    But Plan Ahead . . . 
    P.S.  If you do go, note that tickets for the Lehman Caves tour and for the Nevada Northern Railway can both sell out weeks in advance.  The Railway's monthly nighttime stargazing tour is already sold out for the next year! 

  • IdahoPat Nov-17-2022
    I love US 93
    Ely is a quirky little town, with a downtown that hearkens back to an era many decades ago. Rooms at the Hotel Nevada are an absolute timewarp and the gaming floor would be well received by LVA'ers. The Copper Queen Ramada has an indoor swimming pool that's located right next to the casino floor. 
    
    There's no way a trip to Great Basin should take four days from Vegas -- the park itself allows you to hit all the high notes in a single day. Also, full access is really guaranteed only for about 6 months out of the year -- snow at that elevation is always a factor from October-March.

  • Doozey Nov-18-2022
    RV
    You did not say if you have experience with RVs. Could be deal breaker.