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For more than 50 years, Hugo's Cellar has enjoyed a reputation as one of the finest and most romantic restaurants in Las Vegas and the several owners of the Four Queens since the restaurant opened have been wise enough not to mess with a good thing. In fact, Terry Caudill, the current owner, has vowed "never" to change Hugo's.
The restaurant made its debut in 1973 as Hugo's Rotisserie. When it was remodeled in 1976, it was renamed Hugo's Cellar. We searched far and wide, but could find no reference to the Hugo for whom the restaurant is named.
As the rest of the name states, the restaurant is situated several steps down from the casino floor at Four Queens, where you descend into what is always described, including in your question, as old-school ambience. And why not? It opened only a few years after the height of the Rat Pack era (and only seven years after the Four Queens itself kicked off in 1966).
The main room still exudes the time-honored look of Rat Pack cool, with brick-lined walls, exposed ceiling beams, green lanterns and Tiffany lamps for the subdued lighting, deep red decor, and cushy booths with bright white tablecloths. The feeling is that you might be sitting at a table next to Sam Giancanna, Vito Genovese, Frank Costello, Joe Profaci, even Meyer Lansky. We know that all the Rat Packers and Jerry Lewis, Wilt Chamberlain, and of course Wayne Newton have graced the place with their presence.
The bar and lounge are right out front and at the stand for the maître d' (no mere hostesses here), every lady is presented with a long-stemmed rose.
Some of the waiters, all tuxedoed, have been there for decades and Jon Simmons is one of only two full-time sommeliers who've worked at Hugo's since it opened; Simmons started as a waiter in 1984.
The food focuses on high-quality steaks, seafood, and prime rib. Each meal comes with a Caesar salad prepared tableside. The flambé presentation is a good show. And a plate full of chocolate-dipped fruit is served at the end of the meal as a signature touch.
All in all, Hugo's Cellar has stood the test of time and is now among the five or six oldest restaurants in Vegas.
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