Question of the Day - 16 August 2023

Kobe is a word, much like Champagne or Burgundy, that is a legal designation of origin overseas, but that Americans tend to abuse. In Europe, you cannot legally call something Champagne unless it comes from France's Champagne region and you can't call a wine Burgundy unless it comes from that eponymous locale. Similarly, in Japan, you can't call beef Kobe unless it comes from the Kobe region.

The people of Kobe take the raising of cattle very seriously. They use a breed known as Wagyu that's been bred for centuries to develop the maximum degree of marbling (fat). They also raise the livestock in ways designed to increase fat; feeding them beer to boost appetites is one of the more famous methods. But fattening a Wagyu isn't like fattening an American cow. They've been bred to distribute that fat differently. If you look at a cut of Wagyu beef, you'll see that it's dotted with white flecks of fat, compared to fatty American cuts, which have larger veins of fat.

For years, the Japanese refused to export either Kobe beef or live Wagyu cattle. Awhile back, however, some Australian breeders were able to purchase a few cows and began breeding them using Japanese methods; Americans eventually got hold of them as well. In America, however, we often cross-breed them with Angus cattle, yet still called the beef "Kobe" or "Wagyu." (Under U.S. standards, a cow must be at least 51% Wagyu to be labeled as Kobe or Wagyu.) Australian Wagyu is generally considered superior to American, but not as good as Japanese.

At some point, the Japanese began exporting real Japanese Wagyu/Kobe beef. They're so proud of it that each slab of meat comes to the restaurant with a birth certificate, indicating the cow's name, the names of its parents and grandparents, and its nose-print. Any restaurant selling authentic Japanese Kobe should be able to produce that certificate. The highest grade of Japanese Kobe, A5, sells for $40-$75 per ounce on the Las Vegas Strip.

Many restaurants use the term Kobe to describe all Wagyu (just as some people refer to all sparkling wines as Champagne). Some even go so far as to apply Japanese grades, such as A4 or A5, to American "Kobe," despite the fact that the USDA doesn't grade meat in that fashion. 

According to various reports we've seen over the years, the last one from 2021, only 38 restaurants in the country are certified to serve bona fide Kobe/Wagyu. Eight are in Las Vegas: Bazaar Meat by Jose Andres (Sahara), Cut by Wolfgang Puck (Palazzo), Hank's Fine Steaks (Henderson), Jing (Summerlin), Scotch 80 Prime (Palms), Vic and Anthony's Steakhouse (Golden Nugget), Jean George Steakhouse (Aria), and SW Steakhouse (Wynn).

To try this certified beef, you can get it as low as $18 an ounce at Jing; you can also pay up to $75 an ounce at SW Steakhouse (four-ounce minimum).

Final advice. Be very careful before you shell out for a huge Kobe steak, even if it's the real deal. A lot of Americans don't enjoy the high fat content. You'd be amazed how many people order Kobe/Wagyu, just because it's the most expensive thing on the menu, especially if they're on a big comp, then complain about it. Moreover, if you do order it, remember to order a smaller cut than you normally would ordering American steaks, since all that fat tends to fill you up quicker.

Most importantly, whenever you see the word Kobe or Wagyu and are tempted to order, make sure to ask exactly where it's from and don't believe any hemming, hawing, or waffling.