Old Soul

Old Soul is described by its owner as a “pre-Prohibition (1920) elevated American classic kitchen.” The restaurant is furnished with items that proprietor Natalie Young (also the owner of Fremont East’s Eat) says were found almost exclusively in downtown’s antique stores.

It’s a tough location, at the big (daunting) World Market Center, though it’s right near the entrance, with a patio to the side so it’s not too hard to find. Still, a branch of the popular Vegas Mexican restaurant Mundo didn’t last long in this space, which was vacant for several years, so we wish Natalie the best of luck with Old Soul. Just follow the signs from the parking lot.

This is the fanciest comfort food around: meatloaf, Cornish game hen, liver and onions, liver pâté, roasted cauliflower, fried green tomatoes, bread pudding. But it all has a sizzle from unexpected ingredients. Then there are the modern dishes like branzino, braised short rib risotto, and squid ($17-$36).

By the time you wander back to your car, you’ll feel like you’ve discovered a hidden gem. Just don’t try eating here (or even getting close to the place) when the furniture markets are in town toward the end of January and July every year.