Our trip to Power Soul Café inspired us to finally check out Tacotarian, the vegan taco brand that, since launching here in 2018, has opened four locations in Las Vegas and one in San Diego. It has garnered some attention; in 2023, Tacotarian was named one of the 25 best vegan Mexican restaurants in the country by VegNews and placed #52 on Yelp’s Top 100 Taco Spots nationwide.
One venue is on S. Fort Apache way over by the big bend in the Beltway, another is way down on Blue Diamond near Silverton, the third is way out in Henderson, and the flagship is downtown in the Arts District on Casino Center Blvd. a couple of blocks south of Charleston. That’s the one we visited.
As you’d expect from a flagship eatery in the Arts District, this is a trendy spot — bright, open and airy, and full of Mexican colors, with greenery and a merch corner.
It’s also big, so it can seat everyone when it gets busy, which it does, especially for lunch. You order and pay at the counter and your meal is delivered to your table.
Tacotarian bills itself as flexitarian (sometimes vegan, sometimes not), so it’s not the usual vegan menu that relies heavily on Beyond Beef or Impossible products using such plant proteins as pea, mung and faba beans, and brown rice. Though they do include some of those, they also create their own proteins, with jackfruit (like a giant fig), seitan (made from gluten, the main protein of wheat), Gardein-brand chicken and fish (made of textured vegetable protein, a.k.a. TVP, soy concentrate, and flour), non-dairy cheese, plantains, even hibiscus flowers — essentially, meat-free versions of familiar taco fillings and flavors.
The food is pretty typical for a Mexican place, whether vegan, flex, or meat-based. The menu has antojitos, such as chips and salsa, nachos, guacamole, and elote ($5-$16), veg soup and salads ($6-$17), a couple of dozen different tacos ($4-$6, with a three-taco platter, the most popular choice, at $18), burritos ($11-$20), and desserts ($6-$9).
The difference is, as we say, in the proteins. For example, the carne asada is made with seitan, the barbacoa with jackfruit, and the chorizo with soy. You can also get alcohol at the Tacotarians — beer, margaritas, and specialty cocktails — unusual for a vegan restaurant.
We know this food isn’t for everyone, including ourselves. We’ve been through our soy, seitan, TVP, and Beyond Beef experiments, so none of that interested us. What did was the cauliflower ceviche ($6.99), marinated in lime juice, topped with cucumber, avocado, and pico, and served with plentiful chips. Not quite the real thing, but close enough in flavor and enjoyment. We also tried the Baja taco ($3.99), with avocado fried in beer batter, cilantro-lime slaw, and guacamole. Again, since we weren’t concerned with protein, it was a good regular taco to us.
The bill with tax, without tip, came to $11.90, which we thought quite reasonable for both the quantity and quality of the food. The meal, in the end, was tasty, filling, and affordable, a good one-off lunch.
