Posted on 5 Comments

Figuring It Out

I received an email to be answered on the podcast. Here it is:

I have a strategy question about 8/5 ACE$ bonus. I’ve been told that you play it the same as you would 8/5 bonus with the following exception: when dealt a full house with 2 or 3 aces where ACE$ is possible, you only hold the aces. Is that true? When dealt 2 pair and one of the pair are aces in the right position do you go for the full house or just hold the aces?

Continue reading Figuring It Out
Posted on 18 Comments

Games I Prefer

Generally, I’m going to play the game that returns the most — including slot club, promotions, and mailer. Sometimes, however, I have a choice between a few different games that return about the same amount.  Here is my approximate ranking — your mileage may vary.

Hundred Play > Fifty Play > Ten Play > Five Play > Triple Play > single line games. Assuming the same return, the more lines the better. This increases the fun and decreases the variance.

I prefer these over Double Super Times Pay and Super Times Pay. Keep in mind, though, that if it’s the same pay schedule, the DSTP version adds about 0.5% and the STP versions adds half that. These additions more than make up for the fact that these aren’t my favorite games. The reason for my lack of excitement on these games is the speed. Whenever you get a multiplier, it takes five seconds or so for the exact multiplier to be “squeezed” out and made visible. I’d prefer to have that five seconds to play another hand.

Quick Quads > Ultimate X. Since neither game regularly comes in good pay schedules (other than at the South Point), the choice is moot for most people who seriously value winning. Quick Quads has a different strategy — but not a greatly different one. The sound Quick Quads makes when you get a Quick Quads (namely three of a kind where the ranks of the other two cards add up to the rank of the trips) strikes the right level of excitement and non-annoyingness. Ultimate X is a game with a sky-high variance and the strategy for the game is quite a bit different than regular video poker games. You have to be in the mood to play and willing to lose a great amount today, even with a good pay schedule.

Spin Poker is okay, but not nearly as attractive to me as Ten Play.

I usually avoid Dream Card as I find the sound effects annoying.

Multi Strike is an interesting game, but it’s slow. Keeping four strategies straight requires some effort, although it’s not impossible. If I’m playing while tired, though, I’ll sometimes make mistakes on this game.

I prefer slant tops to uprights to bar tops. Bar-top machines, even with good pay schedules, have stickier than average buttons due to drinks being spilled on them. I can play longer on slant tops than I can on uprights.

I prefer adjustable seats to non-adjustable. I am taller than average and prefer a higher chair than average.

Each of these game-types come with several different games.  That is, you can find Double Double Bonus, Jacks or Better, Deuces Wild, etc., in most of these game types.

Deuces Wild is generally my favorite game. (It doesn’t exist in Quick Quads.) What makes it interesting to me is you never know what you will get. Start with two deuces and you can end up with anything from 3-of-a-kind to four deuces — meaning anywhere from five coins to 1,000 — per line.

Jacks or Better — This game is arguably the simplest and has the lowest variance. Some people get bored with the variance, but not me. Since I’m playing games where the slot club and other goodies give me an advantage, it’s plenty okay just to grind it out.

Double Double Bonus — This is the most popular video poker game in the country. I generally avoid it because it rarely returns more than 99%. When found in a better version, or with a GREAT promotion, this game is fun. Better have your seat belt on though. It has a lot of variance.

I will play other games, of course, if they happen to be the best game at a casino. Exactly which one it is doesn’t matter much to me. If I can learn the strategy, I can play it. If learning additional games doesn’t come easily to you, you might limit your selection to the games you already know.

There are games like Ultimate X Bonus Streak and others where the correct strategy is unknown — at least by me. I do not have the computer programming skills to work it out, and commercially available software does not contain these games. To get good at a game I need a computer to correct me when I make a mistake.

As I said at the beginning, the total return of the game is the most important thing to me. It matters to me not at all if your favorite games are different than mine.

Posted on 5 Comments

Figuring Out a New Strategy on the Fly — Deuces Wild Version

Last week I listed some rules about when you should make strategy adjustments based on pay schedules for games without wild cards. Today I’m doing the same thing for Deuces Wild games.

Again, I strongly recommend knowing the strategy for at least one game ‘cold.’ This game could be Full Pay Deuces Wild, NSU Deuces Wild, pNSN (called Airport Deuces by some), or some other variation, but if you don’t know at least one game, these rules will be of marginal value.

To the abbreviations I used last week, add W which stands for a wild card in general or, in this game, a deuce.

A key part of knowing Deuces Wild is knowing how 3- and 4-card straight flushes rank. Here I’m including a list I use in my classes. Even if you’re not familiar with Dancer/Daily notation, you should be able to understand the relative values of these combinations. Not all of these categories are eligible to be held in all games, but you should be aware of the relative ranking in the game they are held.

Summary of categories of SF3 and SF4

SF3 -2 = double inside; SF3 -1 = single inside; SF3 +0 = non-inside;

SF4 -3 = triple inside; SF4 -2 = double inside; SF4 -1 = single inside;

SF4 +0 = non-inside;

 

0-deuce SF3

SF3 [A-low]           [A34; A35; A45]

SF3 -2                     [includes 346 and 356; excludes any A-low]

SF3 -1                      [includes 456; for strategy purposes, includes 345]

SF3 +0                    [567 9TJ]

 

1-deuce SF3

SF3 -1                  [W57W9J > W56 > W45]   

SF3 +0                [W67W9T]  

 

1-deuce SF4

SF4 [A-low]        [WA34; WA35; WA45]

SF4 -2                  [W346; W356; W347 W9QK]

SF4 -1                   [W345; W456; W457 WJQ]

SF4 +0                 [W567W9TJ]

 

2-deuce SF4

          SF4 -2      [WW34 = WW35 = WW46 = WW47 WW9Q]

          SF4 -1      [WW45 = WW56 = WW57 WW9J]

          SF4 +0    [WW67WW9T]  

 

  1. K♥ Q♥ J♥ T♥ 9♥
  2. K♠ K♥ 3♠ 3♥ J♠  
  3. A♦ A♠ K♠ 7♠ 3♠
  4. A♣ 3♣ 4♣ 5♥ 9♠
  5. K♥ Q♥ 9♠ 8♥ 5♦
  6. J♠ T♠ 9♠ 7♠ 8♦
  7. Q♦ J♣ T♦ 8♠ 3♠
  8. K♠ Q♠ T♥ 9♣ 2♦
  9. W 7♠ 8♠ 9♠ A♠
  10. W 8♠T♠ 4♥ 5♥
  11. W W W T♠ T♥ versus W W W 4♠ 4♥

 

Now let’s look at how changes to the pay schedule will affect these plays. Note that my statements are strong tendencies, but exceptions may be found sometimes. I’m using the following notation here:

2P — two pair

3K — three of a kind

ST — straight

FL — flush

FH — full house

4K — four of a kind

5K — five of a kind

SF — straight flush

RF — royal flush.

 

When flushes pay 15 on a 5-coin basis, I’ll say FL pays 3-for-1. I went back and forth about whether to say “pay” or “pays.” I can argue persuasively against either way of doing it, but I had to pick one. So, I did.

 

Also, I am not including Ultimate X strategies here. I am only discussing strategies where there are no multipliers earned.

 

  1. You ALWAYS throw away the 9. It’s on this list more for completeness because in games without wild cards you ALWAYS keep the 9 when the royal pays 4,000 coins. Not all players go back and forth between games seamlessly
  2. Whether you hold one pair or two depends on how much you get for the FH. When FH pays 3-for-1, hold one pair. When FH pays 4-for-1, hold two pair. When you hold one pair, if all 4K pay the same and all 5K pay the same, it doesn’t matter which pair you hold. In a game like Bonus Deuces where five 3s pay more than five Ks, if the FH pays 3-for-1, just hold the 3s.
  3. Hold the pair when FL pays 2-for-1. Hold the spades when FL pays 3-for-1.
  4. Hold the A-low SF3 when the sum of FL and SF pays 12 or more. That is, in FPDW, FL pays 2 and SF pays 9 — so you throw everything away. In pNSU, where FL pays 3 and SF pays 9, hold A34. Do not even think about holding A345. That has only half as much value as an inside straight draw and is never held.
  5. If FL pays 3-for-1, hold KQ. If FL pays 2-for-1, throw everything away. In games where FL pays 2-for-1, you probably hold KQ if none of the remaining three cards are 9 or higher (i.e. a straight penalty) and none are suited with the KQ (i.e. a flush penalty).
  6. Hold all five cards when ST pays 2-for-1. Just hold the spades when ST pays 1-for-1.
  7. When FL pays 3-for-1, hold QT.  When FL pays 2-for-1, hold QJT8.  If the J were a 9, sometimes you hold QT even if the FL pays 2-for-1 — depending on how much the SF pays.
  8. Hold KQ if ST pays 1-for-1. Hold KQT9 if ST pays 2-for-1.
  9. Hold all five cards if FL pays 3-for-1. Just hold W789 if FL pays 2-for-1.
  10. W8T is ALWAYS preferred to W45 (see the chart prior to the list of problem hands), although sometimes both W8T and W45 are inferior to holding the W by itself. You’ll prefer W8T to just the W if the sum of the FL and SF add up to 12 or more.
  11. When 4K returns 5-for-1, hold the quints when they include TT, JJ, QQ, KK, or AA and otherwise just hold the deuces. It’s a close play and the reason for the difference has to do with the possibility of getting wild royals. In the more common situation where 4K returns 4-for-1, hold the quints when 5K pays more than 12-for-1.