The Naughty Angel is a new “French-inspired steakhouse” in a small strip mall on Sammy Davis Jr. Drive at the intersection of Resorts World Road. The owner-chef, Angel Lopez, has worked up and down the Strip, from Sadelle’s to Joel Robuchon, and opened Primal Steakhouse ini the Boulevard Mall on Maryland Parkway in late 2020; it’s a favorite of at least one Blackjack Hall of Famer of our acquaintance.
It’s a large restaurant and bar that encompasses three storefronts and dresses up the shopping center with its massage parlor, vape shop, tattoo parlor, psychic, and hookah lounge. It’s a tasteful and eclectic place, with soft French-style cabaret music, Central American-inspired original art (Lopez is Guatemalan), and a few Asian-decor touches. If you’re looking for a quiet, non-casino, fine-dining experience, The Naughty Angel will definitely fill the bill. It’s open until midnight Mon.-Thurs., 1 a.m. Fri. and Saturday.
A great way to try out the food is during happy hour, 4-7 p.m. Monday-Friday. Appetizers start at $5 (pommes frites), with a bargain French onion soup ($7), ratatouille ($8), and up to $12 for cheese fondue. Bottled beers are $5, shot of the day $6, well drinks $7, and glasses of international wines $10. We arrived at 6:30 on a Thursday and got in on the happy-hour zucchini and Gruyere cakes, housemade herb sausage, and ratatouile; with one beer, we’d have been out of there for around $30. But everything was so good, especially the sausage in a piquant salsa, that we stuck around for dinner.
The menu is as advertised, French and steaks. The traditional dishes include such appetizers as crudites and tartine ($17), escargot and steak tartare ($19), and bacon-wrapped prawns ($22); lobster bisque, crab louie, and Caesar ($14-$18); coq au vin and chicken fricassee ($38), linguine and clams ($40), seared duck breast ($49), Dover sole ($58), and braised lamb shanks ($65); and of course the steaks ($40-$90). Sides include garlic mashed, twice-baked potato, stuffed peppers, lemon-butter/hollandaise asparagus, and herb risotta ($9-$12); and for dessert crème brûlée, chocolate fondue, baked Alaska, and hummingbird cake ($14-$22).
Our bill for three happy-hour apps, steak and lobster, crème brûlée, and bottled water came to $178.82 with tax. Eminently reasonable for a lot of high-quality food — and we got another meal out of the steak and noodles.
We tried the lobster-tail Mafaldine with pasta in a creamy lobster sauce ($55) and the eight-ounce filet in creamy horseradish ($50), plus the crème brûlée. In true French fashion, the secret to this food are the sauces: for example, demi-glaze, peppercorn, and Bearnaise for the steaks; lemon beurre blanc for the sole; red wine and herbs for the lamb; and a cream sauce for the fricassee. Chef Angel definitely learned his lessons in long years in Strip kitchens.
The Naughty Angel opened in April and is still getting on its legs, so service is exquisite; Angel himself served us our appetizers. We’re really rooting for the place to make it and with Resorts World directly across the street, with Circus Circus next to it and Fontainebleau on the other side, it has a good shot of becoming a local mainstay. We’ll definitely be back, especially for happy hours to come.
