Category: Dining

The Mirage is closing next month, so why are we reviewing Otoro Robata Grill now? Two reasons. First, we had a terrific meal there. Second, we figure lots of people will be heading over for a last look at the casino, so dinner at Otoro might work in well with that plan.

As the name indicates, this is robata cooking, which pretty much means skewers cooked over very hot charcoal. There’s also a full sushi/sashimi menu. The oysters in truffle ponzu with kizami and chives are a great starter if you don’t mind fading $39 for eight ($4.88 per). Sweet-and-sour calamari with wasabi vinaigrette ($18) is another winner.

A tall Kirin beer was $22 and a single Murai Nigori sake was $13.

The Skewers

Meat skewers are $10 (chicken) to $32 (baby lamb chop), seafood is $10 (salmon) to $28 (lobster), and vegetable is $6-$10. Trying all three categories, we went with Togarashiu sirloin steak, lamb chop, Chilean sea bass, and shishito peppers. We haven’t reviewed many robata restaurants, so we don’t have a lot to compare to, but the Otoro skewers were as good as any we’ve had. They’re not the teeny skewers you get at the Japanese Izakaya’s; instead, they’re substantial and three to four per person are enough.

The Sushi

Sushi and skewers make a good combo. There’s nigiri, rolls, and sashimi. The nigiri comes two pieces to an order, most selections priced $10-$14 ($21 for uni, $38 for bluefin tuna belly). We had several, including akimi tuna and a spicy yellowtail hand roll. Although the robata cooking is the main focus, the restaurant’s name comes from otoro bluefiin tuna, so the sushi is also a priority.

The Verdict

Everything we tried was good. It’s ironic that we’d have the best meal we’ve ever had at the Mirage (except for some buffet visits when it was there) just as the casino is about to close. It’s not cheap—the bill was $263 for two, including $55 for drinks—but you can get the experience for less during the Fri.-Tues. happy hour (see ENTERTAINMENT), which might fit in even better on a farewell visit to the Mirage. Check out the full menu here.

A Reader Leader alerted us to the great scene and good affordable food at the venerable Chicago Brewing Company in the back of Four Queens. Though we’ve had drinks and watched games at this venue’s bar many times since it opened in 1999, we couldn’t recall eating there and a search of the archives turned up no review. Given the attention that Terry Caudill, the owner of Four Queens and Binion’s, has given us over the years with coupons (plus a recent two-part Question of the Day interview), we were happpy to give it a try.

In the far corner of the casino, you walk up a short staircase and enter the bar. With its brick walls and picture windows overlooking the slots, it’s a classic brew-pub and sports-bar scene, with numerous screens filling the walls, all showing sports.

It’s open 24/7, serves breakfast all hours, and boasts a non-smoking taproom. Cigars are available for the smoking section. The beer brewed on the premises has won awards at the Great American Beer Festival and the World Beer Cup. Ales include golden, brown, and pale; you’ll also find American amber, Bavarian wheat, and Irish stout, among other small batches and specials.

The food, as our LVA correspondent insisted, is good at great prices from a big menu.

Appetizers start at $6 for garlic knots and include meatballs, quesadillas, fries, chicken tenders and jumbo wings, calamari, and shrimp cocktail ($8-$16). Soup, chili, and side salads are $5-$6. Numerous sandwiches and burgers (including filet mignon sliders) go for $10-$15. Thin crust and deep-dish Chicago-style (natch) pizzas come in 9-, 10-, and 16-inch pies from $10 to $15 with various toppings at $1, $2, and $3 extra. Desserts are $4-$6. As you’d expect from the same casino with Magnolia’s and Hugo’s Cellar, it’s big food at reasonable prices. There’s also a happy hour Sun.- Thurs. 3-6 p.m. and 11 p.m.-1 a.m. with $2 off drafts and 50% off house wines and well drinks.

We tried the raspberry-pear-almond salad and chicken club with onion rings, both excellent and filling.

Best of all, we had the pleasure of lunch with our very old and dear friend and best-selling author Jean Scott. It was appropriate that we ate at Chicago Brewing with her; this reviewer first met Jean and her husband Brad in a room upstairs (comped, of course) way back in 1992. She was here on a visit from Georgia to play in a mahjong tournament, her new passion. We’re happy to report that she’s still as vital, frugal, and, as you can see from the photo beautiful, inside and out, as she was 32 years ago.

There are a lot of good bar steak specials out there—Mr. D’s. Jake’s, Jackson’s—but this one at Scoundrels Tavern & Eatery might be the best (not counting our Member Rewards deal at Jacksons). It’s served Tuesdays only from 3 pm until they’re gone. It’s a 16-ounce ribeye that comes with salad, loaded baked potato, vegetable, and garlic toast for $19.99.

This meal is terrific and it’s huge—one dinner will easily feed two. The salad is a notch above to start, the big baked potato comes with butter, sour cream, bacon bits, and cheese, and if they’re lying about the in-house-cut ribeyes being 16 ounces, it’s because they’re bigger than that.

Do They Get Gone?

Yes, they do. Lots of steaks come out of the kitchen and we’ve been there around 8:30 pm when they’ve sold out . They usually last longer, though (the bartender usually knows exactly how many are left). Best to order as soon as you get there.

Other Items

There’s a big menu. We’ve tried the burger ($12.99), the cheesesteak ($13.99), and chicken fingers ($13.99). None of these stood out like the steak, but they’re decent options if it’s not Tuesday.

Parlay With the Bonuses

Scoundrels has a play-$250-get-$50 sign-up bonus and a play $500-get-$50-bonus Sun.-Tues. from 8 to 10 pm. These can be played on the same day. Show up before 8 for dinner, then play after.

Watch the Games

Scoundrels is a good sports bar to boot, with sports always on the big screens. The only negative is the location, way out on the north side at 6310 N. Lamb Blvd., but it’s a straight shot out I-15 N near the Las Vegas Motor Speedway.

On our first visit, we took a brief look around the Fbleau food hall and were underwhelmed by the offerings and overcome by the prices: $18 for a slice of pepperoni pizza and a Bud Light; $35 for chips and salsa, a burrito, and a churro; $20 for an orange juice and cinnamon roll; $16 for a chicken sandwich. Then there’s the expensive stuff: $18 for a bagel and lox; $22 for a Wagyu and quail-egg bowl; $25 for a cheeseburger and truffle fries. Yikes.

We were, however, impressed with the venue on the second floor of the building. It’s expansive, comfortable, and welcoming.

On the second visit, we dug deeper and we’re glad we did. This food hall is more than meets the eye.
Yes, the burgers are dear, but Capon’s is a venue of Josh Capon, a celebrity chef in New York, after making his bones at restaurants all over Europe, appearing on numerous cooking shows, and winning the New York City Wine and Food Festival’s Burger Bash six times. The Smoke Show burger is slathered with mustard, then grilled and topped with cheese, strong pickles, and a signature onion-and-bacon jam.

Bar Ito’s proprietors are Michelin-starred chefs Kevin Kim and Masa Ito, who also own and operate ITO, a New York City omakase restaurant, and the ITO in the Poodle Room, Fbleau’s uber-exclusive members-only club on the 67th floor.
Miami Slice, we understand, is one of the most popular pizza places in south Florida; the story is it took the proprietors two years to perfect the dough.

Likewise, El Bagel started as a popup at food truck events around Miami and gained a cult following; last year, Bon Appetit named El Bagel one of the “best bagels in the U.S.”

Still, as on our quest to try the least expensive item at Durango, we wanted to see how little we could get away with spending at the Promenade Food Hall. Next time, we’ll try the burger, a slice of pizza, or a taco, but this time, we opted for an everything bagel and butter, total price $3.99 (cream cheese raises it to $6.50).

We ordered at the counter. When we sat down at a table, we saw the QR code for the menu app and were surprised by how many more choices are available in the online ordering system than on the signs at the outlets. For example, we could have ordered the bagel toasted, untoasted, or even burnt. We could’ve added onion, tomato, jalapeno, or dill for an extra $1 (each, of course), plus lettuce ($2), Swiss or American cheese ($3), bacon or sausage ($4), pastrami ($5), or roe ($6). We’d have never known that just from reading the signs. The tacos have six substitutions, a dozen add-ons, and gluten-free and allergy-free choices. Bar Ito has a complete sushi menu—three handrolls ($33) or five ($50), with lobster, spicy scallop, hamachi, and roast shiitake.

We spent an enjoyable 15 minutes perusing all the different selections, while scarfing the bagel, with was excellent, by the way, oversized and the most loaded-with-everything everything bagel we’ve ever eaten. We’d go back for one — or a dozen — of those in a New York minute.

Roadside Taco and Break, the coffee and pastry bar, round out the Promenade’s offerings.

You’ve no doubt heard or read by now that Fontainebleau is a sparkling brand-new hotel-casino with numerous jaw-dropping and wow-inducing features and the seating area at Promenade is without a doubt the nicest of the two other recent openings (Durango and Rio) and in the top two of them all.

But nowhere is Fontainebleau more sparkling than in the bathrooms. It’s worth the trip just to see these—each at least five times more expensive than this reviewer’s entire house.