There are a few old-time joints in Vegas. The Bootlegger Italian Bistro is one of them. The original Bootlegger opened in 1972 at Tropicana and Eastern and moved to 7700 Las Vegas Blvd. S. in 2001, about two miles south of the Tropicana corner, where it still operates today. Through the years, this place has been a go-to for food, live music, and good old-fashioned people watching. Lots of names have been through the doors and every once in a while you see one.
The Food
It’s a big menu. A little pricey and we wouldn’t rate it the best Italian food in town, but it’s good. Certainly different, based on northern Italian family recipes. The minestrone, for example, contains a generous ration of cabbage and beans, more than most. It’s $12 for a big bowl. Basic pastas are in the $20s, seafood pastas in the $30s, Veal parm is $40. Lunch dishes are $18-$25 and there are slight discounts if you’re gambling at the bar (see below). While waiting for the food you get a plate of warm bread knots with marinara for dipping.
Neck Bones
Then there’s the neck bones. Years ago, one of Las Vegas’ busiest non-casino restaurants was Venetian Ristorante. It was located on W. Sahara where Herbs & Rye now stands. The Venetian was famous for one appetizer that no place else served: neck bones. They were braised pork bones served in a broth with bread meant for sopping it all up. Anthony Curtis recalls trying them for the first time and wondering what the fuss was all about, but everyone ordered them. When the Venetian closed in 2003, he never saw them again until they appeared on the menu at Bootlegger ($25). Nostalgia comes in odd forms. After quizzing a bartender, we learned that the owners of the two restaurants are family; hence, the recipe travels.
Music
There’s live dinner music in the restaurant and an attached music venue where some of Las Vegas’ top bands play, currently Santa Fe and the Fat City Horns, on Monday nights with admission starting at $10. Call 702-609-3390 for details.
Video Poker
There are machines at the bar and the best schedule is better than most Las Vegas bars, 7/5 Bonus Poker returning 98.01%. If you play you can get a $11 Peroni comped, or a house red with your pasta. There’s also a play-$20-get-$20 bonus every Friday if you’re signed up with Gambler’s Bonus (ask the bartender).
Lieutenant Governor
The daughter of the founders, Lorraine Hunt, was an accomplished casino-lounge performer. She entered politics and was elected Lieutenant Governor of Nevada in 1998.
The Verdict
This place is too old-style cool not to like. We said it’s “pricey,” but not egregiously so. Consider that you’re paying a little more for the ambience and vibe, which is present in abundance. It’s something of a must-do at some point in your Vegas exploration.